The Big Island in One Week - pt. 1
As the name implies, the Island of Hawaii, (or commonly known as the “Big Island”) is quite large. I, like many before me, didn’t realize how big it truly was until I was able to experience it firsthand. The actual island of Hawaii is larger than all the other islands combined and is roughly the size of Connecticut. You will need at least 5 days to explore every corner of Hawaii, and this itinerary encompasses the entire island.
Getting There
Most flights that land in Hawaii arrive in the late afternoon to late evening. There are only two international airports, but you will most likely be landing at Kona on the Western side of the island. The other airport is Hilo, located on the Eastern side of the island, but has significantly fewer flights coming in compared to its Western cousin. One of the coolest aspects of all Hawaiian airports is that there are no doors or windows anywhere. Everything is exposed to the elements with only a series of palm leaf roofs as your source of shelter.
Getting Around
You’ll need a car… or more specifically, a Jeep. After all, you are on the “Big Island”, the largest island in the state with little to no population density and mostly rugged terrain. You will need to rent a car, preferably one with all-wheel-drive. All the rental car companies are about a 5-minute shuttle ride away or a 15-minute walk. I recommend taking the shuttle over walking because it’s free, and depending on the time of day you are there, the walk could be brutal to both your luggage and body.
The two most popular cars to rent on the island are either a two-door Jeep Wrangler or a two-door Mustang. I’ve experienced life on the island with both, and in my opinion, you should always go for the Jeep. The Big Island is the newest landmass in the state of Hawaii due to the always present volcanic activity, and that means the terrain is difficult to traverse in certain areas. Even if you plan to visit a beach, the roads will be rough, and they love to scrape the undercarriage of low riding sports cars.
Depending on what time you arrive, there might be a long line waiting for you, since this is the only legitimate way of transporting around the island. In my experience, if you land between 3pm to 7pm it will take between 45 minutes to 2 hours to get your rental car. That window is the busiest time for planes to land in Hawaii, so it causes quite a backup. If, however, you land after 7pm, there is zero wait, and checking into your car reservation should be a breeze.
Uber/Lyft
There is some small presence of ride-sharing apps on the island, but don’t depend on this as your only method to get around. The only time I knew of someone taking an Uber instead of driving themselves was when the wait to get a rental car was over 2 hours, and even then they planned to come back the next day to pick up their rental.
Day 0, The Big Chill
What’s most likely going to happen on your first day is… absolutely nothing. I don’t like to consider this as part of the trip because by the time you arrive at your hotel or Airbnb it will be either dinner time, or way past that. Don’t be fussy about dinner choices, there is plenty of time to get fancy on dining, but for the first meal on the island - go super low key. Grab something that looks tasty at a grocery store, eat at the hotel restaurant on site, or go to a local fast-food joint and just chill out, you are in Hawaii!
Day 1, The Southbound Coffee Trail
Starting on the Kona side, your journey will take you southbound, but as you drive down Highway 11 make sure to stop by the many coffee plantations just off the road. You are now in the land of Kona coffee and there are hundreds of farms to visit. It is impossible to visit all of them, so focus on the ones that seem interesting to you (and allow visitors).
A good start is to visit the Kona Coffee Living History Farm just off Highway 11 to learn the history of how coffee growing became a major agriculture crop for the state. This is a living museum so there are costumed interpreters who demonstrate traditional crafts and agricultural activities, as well as self-guided tours. This is a perfect first stop on the way down through the coffee trail.
Recommended farms to visit:
After getting your fill of coffee tastings, it’s time to eat some truly authentic Hawaiian food. After much searching, I found that the best place to grab an authentic Hawaiian meal off of Highway 11 is at Kaaloa's Super J's. I’m not going to lie, the exterior of the place is rough around the edges, however, this was one of the best meals I’ve ever had on the island. You can dine-in, but most customers order to-go, and that’s exactly what I did (and you should do as well). The menu is small because the two chefs who run the establishment only focus on a few Hawaiian dishes that they have perfected. When in doubt, order the pork lau lau, with a side of macaroni salad and rice - this meal will change your life. If you can help it, refrain from eating your lunch for about an hour because it is time to drive to the most Southern edge of the island at Green Sands Beach.
There are only four beaches with green sand in the world, and the only one in the United States is on the Big Island. Caused by the naturally occurring peridot minerals in the area, the beach has a light green tint that sometimes shimmers in the sunlight. Driving down to the Southern point is easy, but accessing the actual green beach is where the trouble begins. When driving down S Point Road, you will eventually meet a fork - keep left and once you reach the ‘parking lot’ you have two options to get to the beach. One is driving up a literal cliff and then navigating through the sand dunes littered with ditches, and the other is paying a local to take you. If you plan to attempt to access the beach yourself, you will need a car with high clearance and 4-wheel drive. If you have anything besides a truck or Jeep, you will need to pay a local to take you. Don’t worry, there are plenty of locals who make a good chunk of change doing this, but the ride will be rough, and at times, extremely dangerous. Standing on the bed of a truck with handlebars, you hold on for dear life as the truck bounces you like a rodeo clown for a solid 15 minutes. The fee, $20 roundtrip and you ride at your own risk.
If you decide not to pay the fee and instead drive yourself up a cliffside, you can still enjoy your lunch at the southern point. Drive back up the road for a minute or so and once you reach the fork, take the other road going south. This path takes you to the ‘Southernmost Point in the United States’ and it’s a lovely spot for a picnic lunch. Once you arrive at either the beach or the viewpoint, break out that lau lau and dive into the best lunch of your life.
After chilling at the Southern point for a bit, it’s time to head back and check-in at your next hotel or Airbnb. For the purpose of this itinerary, drive east for about an hour until you reach the Volcanic National Park. There are plenty of hotels to choose from and hundreds of unique Airbnb’s to stay at in the neighborhood area of Volcano. When you’re on this part of the island, make sure to dedicate some time in the evening to enjoy the sounds of the forest. The symphony of birds, frogs, and insects is one of the most beautiful soundtracks you’ll get to hear while on the island.
Dinner - kilauea lodge
Meal options in Volcano are a bit scarce, but if you want to have tableside dining, the best choice is Kilauea Lodge Restaurant. Nestled within the trees, this restaurant gives off a relaxed atmosphere with a menu full of Hawaiian classics and American favorites. If, however, you are on a budget, or would rather eat at your place for the night, the Kilauea General Store is your best bet to pick up what you need for the night and following morning.
Day 2, The Ring of Fire Epicenter
If you’re staying in (or near) Volcano, you will most likely be at a Bed & Breakfast, so your morning meal will be covered. Once out the door, it’s time to head to the Volcano National Park. Depending on when you go, some sites might be closed due to the restoration progress from 2018 lava flow damage, so check the website in advance to make sure that what you’re planning to visit is open. After entering the park, immediately go to the visitor center and talk to a ranger - they are your best resource for information on what sites to visit and what to avoid. The visitor’s center also contains a mini-museum with several exhibits of past volcanic history on the island, as well as potential future ones. Once you get your itinerary sorted, head out and explore!
I visited the park in 2019 when many popular sites were closed and under repair from the lava flow damage they suffered the year prior, but I was still able to see the steam vents, Nāpau crater, and the Holei Sea Arch. If you plan to visit the Sea Arch, a friendly reminder that the island is big, thus the park is big. If you’re driving from the visitor center straight to the Sea Arch, it takes about 40 minutes one-way, so plan your time accordingly.
Photo of bottle taken in Mrs. Mare’s home
Lunch - the rim & volcano winery
If you wish to stop for lunch, I recommend visiting The Rim. The Rim has a sweeping view of the Kīlauea crater that is absolutely stunning. However, like most restaurants with a fantastic view, that doesn’t always mean their food is fantastic. The food is in no way terrible, but a decent 4/5 in taste and presentation. After getting your fix of steam, craters, and a filling lunch, the next stop is heading to the only winery in the entire state - Volcano Winery.
Hawaii has a lot of advantages in agriculture that none of the states in North America have, BUT wine isn’t one of them. Grapevines don’t like humid climates and one of the only places in the state that can maintain a vineyard is in the slopes of Mauna Loa. The wines at Volcano Winery were certainly unique due to the mineral-rich soil from the previous volcanic activity, and some varieties were not grape-based either. They had passionfruit, guava, and a hybrid of both which were all delicious. If you plan to buy a bottle, it must be in your checked luggage when leaving, or you can order over the phone and shipping will be free. The tasting fee is only $10/person and you get 15 wines to taste with generous pours, so it’s quite a good deal.
Where to stay - Kehena Beach cliff house
You can stay at your hotel/Airbnb for another night, OR you can head to the elusive and less traveled neighborhood of Puna on the Southeastern part of the island. There are no typical hotel chains on this part of the island, and only a few Bed and Breakfasts, but plenty of houses to rent on Airbnb or Virbo. If I had to recommend one house out of all the possible places to stay, stay HERE.
I’m a sucker for funky homes on Airbnb, and this was #1 on the list of uniqueness. Featured on the Travel Channel multiple times, the house is a waterfront property with breathtaking views of the ocean. Once checked in, you can either chill at your new digs and enjoy the scenery, or grab some beer/wine and walk the 5 minute trip to the newest beach in the world, Kehena Black Sand Beach.
Kehena Black Sands Beach
There is no way to accurately say for certain, but supposedly the Kehena Black Sand Beach is the newest beach in the world, being only 1-year-old (as of May 2019). Since it’s a brand new beach, there is no formal way to get to it - the Hawaiian park service hasn't created an official trail or staircase to gain access yet, so locals had to make their own path. There is a wide shoulder on the side of the road acting as a parking lot for you to pull along the coast, but you’ll have to cautiously scale your way down over jagged rocks to get to the bottom. The climb down is a little uneasy, so go at a leisure pace. Once at the bottom, you will be greeted with a spectacular view and warm soft black sand between your toes.
NOTE: Kehena Beach is a ‘clothing optional’ beach. You are not required to be nude when at the beach, however, keep in mind that other people might be nude. Sip your beer while watching the waves crash against the onyx sand and enjoy the cooling breeze. Since the beach is facing Southeast, you aren’t able to see the sunset, but that doesn't make the beach any less of an attraction to visit in the late afternoon or early evening.
Uncle Robert’s Night Market
One of the main reasons to spend a night in the Puna area is the famous and extremely popular Uncle Robert’s Night Market. The weekly market, which typically runs from 5-10pm every Wednesday, attracts dozens of vendors and hundreds of visitors. If you want to mingle with the locals and shop for gifts that were truly made by people living on the island, this is where you should go.
Parking can be a struggle, but if you ignore all the cars parked on the side of the road and keep driving towards the market, there will be a sign for free parking on the left. The parking lot (if you would call it that) is a large area of volcanic rock that has been slightly smoothed over to make it easier to drive on. You don’t need 4-wheel drive to navigate the parking lot, but there is a risk of scraping the undercarriage if you are in a sedan.
The first thing I recommend doing is not going towards the market, but rather going towards the ocean. There is a fantastic viewing spot of the water from a cliff’s edge that is great for photos.
After getting your fill of the ocean view, head towards the market just as it starts getting dark. The market is filled with artisans in tiny stalls selling jewelry, leather goods, shirts, and so much food. There is also live music that plays throughout the night with loads of space for dancing.
Back at your Airbnb for the night, make sure to take the time to stand outside and view the stars. This is one part of the island with minimal light pollution, so seeing the natural night sky is rare if you are a city resident.